W

hen the temperature drops in DC, nothing warms the body more than a delicious hearty meal sitting next to a fireplace sipping a glass of wine or cocktail. DC offers the best fireside dining with opportunities to sample cuisine from the world’s best chefs.

Some of the city’s oldest buildings are located in Georgetown, including 1789 Restaurant (1226 36th St., NW). It takes its name from the year that the original site was purchased by Archbishop John Carroll, the founding father of Georgetown University. Situated in an elegant two-story Federal townhouse, 1789 is the perfect spot to dine during the cold winter months with its festive holiday décor. Its seasonal menu is created by award-winning chef, Daniel Giusti, known for showcasing the best flavors of the season. In the main dining room, table #14 has the best view of an elegant historic fireplace and walls adorned with prints from George Washington’s early years, historic maps of the city, and American antique furniture. Enjoy a three-course prix-fixe menu for $40. Open daily for dinner. Jacket required.

Situated in the 150 year-old restored Canal Square Building located just steps from the charming C & O Canal, Seacatch Restaurant & Raw Bar (1054 31st St., NW) offers the best fresh seasonal seafood while dining next to their two historic stone fireplaces. Known for its excellent service and raw bar, Seacatch is a little pricey but worth it, especially to celebrate a special occasion.

Dine fireside at the romantic Italian trattoria, Ristorante Piccolo (1068 31st St., NW) which has cozy fireplaces throughout. Enjoy fresh and seasonal rustic fare, including hand-rolled pastas. Their sunset three-course prix-fixe menu is a steal for just $18 offered Monday through Friday (4:30-6:30pm). Sleep in on Saturday and Sunday and enjoy a late brunch with two courses and up to three glasses of champagne, Bloody Marys or mimosas for just $19 (11:30 am – 3:00 pm).

The list of fireside dining in Georgetown continues. Stepping into La Chaumière (2813 M St. NW) instantly transports you to the charming thatched roof French country inn with a cozy central stone fireplace, wood beams and stucco walls. Escape city life and allow the award winning Chef Patrick Orange romance your senses with traditional French dishes and seasonal specials created according to the availability of fresh local meats and produce. Enjoy unpretentious and attentive service by knowledgeable seasoned staff for reasonable prices.

There is no better warm winter spot in the city than at the Ritz-Carlton Georgetown (3100 South St., NW). In fact, historically, the building served as the District’s refuse incinerator. The fireplace-lit Fahrenheit & Degrees Lounge with a 130-foot chimney offers a cozy respite from the cold brisk DC air. Enjoy complimentary S’mores every evening from 6:30-7 pm in front of the wood burning fireplace or create your own customized S’more at the outdoor fire pit.

This is not your childhood S’more with rich melted Valrhona chocolate and homemade marshmallows sandwiched between two slices of French baguette bread prepared French-toast style. Friday, Saturday and Sunday create your own S’more at the outdoor fire pit.

Moving from Georgetown and into the bustling artsy neighborhood of Dupont Circle, the iconic Tabard Inn (1739 N St. NW), an old-English style hotel that opened in 1922, offers turn-of-the-century charm with a fireplace-lit lounge and cozy atmosphere, the perfect remedy for an evening chill. Relax near the flames with a glass of wine in the cocktail lounge or dine in the homey black-and-white tiled dining room. Appreciate knowledgeable and friendly staff while enjoying Chef Pelt’s imaginative cooking, all for a reasonable price. Save room for dessert: the warm doughnuts with vanilla-scented whipped cream or banana cream pie tinted with milk chocolate are to die for. Brunch is considered one of the best in the city.

DC’s Foggy Bottom neighborhood, named after the misty marshes that once lined the Potomac riverfront in the 1800s, is home to Hotel Lombardy, a small boutique hotel with classic 1920s décor and rich interior design. Inside the hotel bistro, Café Lombardy’s (2019 Pennsylvania Ave.) warm and inviting Venetian Room offers a cozy lounge with a fireplace that welcomes guests for a subdued happy hour. Circle Bistro, located in the One Washington Circle Hotel (1 Washington Circle, NW), offers classic bistro fare with innovative seasonal flavors and quality ingredients. With a fire in the hearth, the soothing orange-papered walls, honey-colored tables, and orange couches give the lounge a warm glow. Perfect for visitors headed to the Kennedy Center, the $35 three-course pre-theatre (5-7 pm) dinner menu is a fantastic bargain. On weeknights between 5-7 pm with half-price cocktails and $5 martinis, Circle Bistro has a vibrant happy hour scene.

Downtown at Equinox (818 Connecticut Ave., NW) dine like the Obamas (see October-November issue) just steps away from the White House where chef Todd Gray has prepared the best seasonal dishes using locally sourced ingredients. He has been supporting local farms and purveyors for over a decade. Gray offers the best contemporary American fare in the city. Newly renovated, Equinox’s atrium has a naturalistic eco-friendly fireplace with textured glass perfect for nourishing cold souls beside the smoldering fire. Make sure to call in advance for a seat near the fireplace. OYA (777 9th Street, NW) offers an Asian-fusion innovative menu in a contemporary backdrop with a 2.5 ton chain curtain, 20-ft long waterfall, and 12 ft long fireplace in the main dining room. The hipster red crocodile bar with white marble fireplace is cozy lounge with ultra-comfortable high-backed white banquettes.

Venture out to Restaurant 3 (2950 Clarendon Blvd) just steps away from the Clarendon metro, to enjoy mouthwatering southern cuisine with imaginative twists, an impressive beer list and specialty cocktails. Enjoy Chef Brian Robinson’s signature dishes such as Catfish, Mussels and Sausage and Fried Chicken & Waffles while dining in the Clarendon Room. Be sure to try their house-cured bacon. Open daily for dinner and Sunday brunch.

Located in Clifton, VA, a historic town born out of the Civil War, Trummer’s on Main (7134 Main St.) is a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Formerly the Hermitage Inn, guests relax beside the fire, while enjoying an aweinspiring meal from a star-studded culinary team. Chef Clayton Miller, formerly of the prestigious French Laundry, named one of Food & Wine magazine’s Best New Chefs of 2010, and along with Pastry Chef Chris Ford, named a StarChefs rising culinary star, create a forceful duo. Austrian born co-owner and award-winning mixologist, Stephan Trummer, whips up specialty cocktails, including his signature drink, "The Reefer."

The international traveler now has a new exciting option to Paris from Washington’s Dulles Airport (IAD). It’s British Airway’s all business class airline – OpenSkies. OpenSkies flies a Boeing 757-200, normally configured with up to 200 passengers, with only 72 Business-Class seats and 12 Sleeper Seats.

The airline offers 5 flights per week out of Dulles at 7:30PM arriving at Paris ORLY at 10AM except Tuesdays and Saturdays, with a return on the same days at 12 noon, arriving IAD at 2:30PM, avoiding the other international arrivals.

ORLY is only 12 miles from the Paris city center as well as being a less busy airport, thus easier to navigate than Charles De Gaulle.

My personal experience flying OpenSkies, was quite pleasant, beginning with an easy Priority Check-In. Each passenger is allowed up to three bags per person with little attention paid to baggage weight (a pleasant surprise).

After an easy check-in, passengers are directed to a special priority security check-point. Following the quickly executed security check-point passengers are welcomed to the British Airways First Class World Club, where complimentary drinks and a hot-cold buffet are served. Upon boarding the Boeing 757-200 aircraft, we were greeted by a lovely French-English speaking flight attendant, who immediately offered us a glass of French Champagne....I knew right then that we were on the right flight! The 72 @ 57” pitch/140 degree reclining business class seats, along with the 12@ 72” pitch/180 degree sleeper seats included individual Multi-Media TV sets for each passenger. The configuration gave a feeling of the Jumbo Jet openness without the noise and commotion.

The three course meal offered was inspired by Chef Michel Richard of Citronelle, DC fame. Several dining options such as vegetarian, Gluten-free, seafood, kosher, are offered for passenger selection on line in advance. Captain Yves sent us an e-mail, introducing himself, and welcomed us to OpenSkies which was a nice added touch

Upon arrival at ORLY, a quick French customs check (no, they were not rude...only nice) with no baggage search. Outside the terminal there was easy access to the DER train to Paris for $15.00, a short Taxi ride $25.00, or the TGV Bullet train to NANTES or LYON which can be effortlessly booked on www.flyopenskies.com before the trip.

Returning from ORLY to IAD is another easy process - with a quick VIP check-in, easy special security lines, and a short walk to the First Class lounge.

All in all, I can truly report that OpenSkies is a wonderful option to the other International carrier’s Business Class offerings at one third the price - $750 each way for the BusSeat and from $1250 each way for the SleeperBed. (The Phantom Traveler is an International Food and Travel writer from the Washington DC area)

Holiday season in Washington D.C. is a magical experience. Boats covered in lights float along the Potomac River, ZooLights and festivities take place at the National Zoo, and twinkle lights decorate the streets from Washington D.C. to Alexandria. If you are lucky enough, you might even experience a white Christmas.

TRADITIONS AND THEMES

T

he White House is no exception to the season. A month before the winter holidays arrive, White House staffers are busy preparing meal plans, decorations and events. Often, the first sign that Christmas is coming to our nation’s capital is when the White House Christmas tree arrives. This tree, chosen months in advance, normally stands eighteen and a half feet tall so that it fits perfectly in the Blue Room.

Though First Lady Caroline Harrison was one of the initial First Ladies to get involved in decorating the White House for the holidays, First Lady Lou Henry Hoover began the tradition of overseeing the tree’s decorations. In 1961, First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy started the custom of having a Christmas tree theme. At that time, she chose to decorate the tree in the Blue Room with ornaments that reflected Petr Tchaikovsky’s “Nutcracker Suite” ballet. Others included First Lady “Lady Bird” Johnson’s early American theme with popcorn strings and gingerbread cookies, First Lady Nancy Reagan’s “A Musical Christmas” theme with ornaments made by a local drug treatment facility, and First Lady Patricia Nixon’s theme of American flowers that included velvet and satin balls designed with each state’s flower made by local disabled workers.

In 1923, the Washington D.C. public school system approached First Lady Grace Coolidge and asked if they could place a large tree on the White House grounds, for lighting. She approved and since then, the lighting of the National Christmas Tree has been an ongoing tradition that includes a gathering of people and holiday festivities. Through the years, the location of the tree has moved around the grounds of the White House.

Then in 1939, the site for the lighting moved to the Ellipse adjacent to the White House grounds.

In 1941, during World War II, Washington D.C. had to adhere to nightly black outs under orders from the Civil Defense. During the Christmas season, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill was President Franklin Roosevelt’s guest. Due to the black outs, the Secret Service insisted that there be no lit tree. President Roosevelt strongly objected, stating that he would not deny the country the lighting of the tree. At the event, he and Churchill spoke to a crowd from the South Portico, where Churchill asked his audience to “make happiness for the children” on Christmas day.

In 1954, the National Park Service constructed a “Pathway of Peace” of cut trees donated by each state in the country. Today, Americans across the country create original ornaments for the 56 trees that represent every U.S. state, territory and the District of Columbia.

In 1963, the White House postponed the lighting of the tree until after the 30-day mourning period of President Kennedy’s assassination. During President Jimmy Carter’s administration, his daughter, Amy, remotely lit the trees – only the top of the National tree and the surrounding 50 trees – in honor of 53 American hostages in Iran.

The unassuming First Lady Pat Nixon brought many changes to the White House holiday season during her husband’s term. She made decorative changes by bringing scones, once exiled by First Lady Kennedy, back to the State Dining room in time for Christmas. She also initiated the now traditional Christmas Candlelight tours.

THE OFFICIAL CARD

The first unofficial White House Christmas Card mailing came from the Franklin Roosevelts. Created as a personal holiday card, First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt asked the White House engraver to create hand lithographs of the White House.

Twenty years later, the first official White House Christmas Card came from the talented President Dwight Eisenhower who painted a portrait of President Abraham Lincoln from a photograph. Eisenhower then consulted Hallmark President Joyce C. Hall to emboss these cards with the Presidential seal for Eisenhower to give to White House staffers as a gift.

In 1962, for the Kennedy’s Official Christmas card, First Lady Kennedy chose a photo of their daughter’s pony, Macaroni, pulling a sleigh that carried herself and her children across the south lawn. In 1963, even though they were printed, the White House never distributed the Kennedy’s official cards due to President Kennedy’s assassination. In 1978, First Lady Rosalyn Carter found a 1877 hand-colored engraving of a photograph by L.E. Walker in the White House furnishing’s warehouse. The engraving was of horse-drawn carriages arriving at the North Entrance of the White House. So enamored with the artwork, the First Lady chose an antique theme from the late 1800s for the Blue Room tree.

Often, the Clintons commissioned the artworks of Ray Ellis and Thomas McKnight for their official Christmas cards. During their eight years in the White House, McKnight painted the Red Room, the Blue Room, and the Green Room for their holiday cards. Also during that time, Ellis painted the State Dining Room, the North Portico, and the Yellow Oval Room.

EVENTS AND PARTIES

The first holiday invitation on record from the presidential mansion came from John Adams when he held the first White House Christmas party during his initial year in office. First Lady Abigail Adams planned the festivities that included a small orchestra, caroling, and games.

Since then, it has been tradition to celebrate this annual winter holiday in a relaxed fashion. In 1805, widower President Thomas Jefferson had Dolley Madison, James Madison’s wife, hosted the White House Christmas party. Guests ate delicacies and children danced while President Jefferson played his violin.

Some presidents chose to reserve the White House Christmas party only for family members, making it a small event. One year, President Abraham Lincoln had a simple celebration with his wife and children. For First Lady Mary Todd Lincoln, this effortless and meaningful event gave her Christmas “so much bliss.”

Children’s parties in the White House have been an ongoing tradition since Jefferson played his fiddle. During President Theodore Roosevelt’s tenure, First Lady Edith Roosevelt celebrated Christmas Eve by hosting a party for the Administration’s children. Six hundred children filled the White House, and parents could only accompany “timid” children during the party’s festivities. Otherwise, White House staff instructed parents, nannies, and nurses to stay downstairs until after the party.

In 1959, President Eisenhower attended a goodwill mission abroad during the holiday season. In his place, First Lady “Mamie Bangs” Eisenhower substituted for Santa “Ike.” She wore red silk dresses and handed out presents at the White House parties. At one event, she had staffers decorate the State Dining Room with a miniature train set that carried little presents around the table.

In 1978, First Lady Carter and daughter Amy, hosted a party for children of diplomats in the East Room of the White House. In attendance were Sesame Street’s Big Bird and Oscar the Grouch. Big Bird danced to the White House Marine Band, and Oscar the Grouch asked them all to have a “grouchy” Christmas. Esteemed journalist Walter Cronkite also attended and read the traditional children’s poems.

However, not all White House Christmas parties went as smoothly as intended. In 1929, during President Herbert Hoover’s party, a fire broke out in the West Wing. President Hoover had to leave the party to oversee the removal of important documents from the Oval Office. Meanwhile, First Lady Hoover kept the band playing and the party going.

The parties keep going, as do eras and presidencies. Every year, Christmas in the White House carries on. This year, the Obamas will celebrate their second White House Christmas with time held traditions, personal celebrations, events, parties, and community service. As with past presidents and their families, historians will document these moments into history books for White House occupants to seize and share in the future.

F

all is here, which means it is the perfect time to visit Virginia’s wine country. The weather is lovely, the trees are awash in a riot of colors, and the country lanes and historic villages are just waiting to be explored. Spend a day away from the chaos of the city surrounded by quiet scenery, and you are sure to relax. Virginia’s wine country is a fairly new wine region when compared to the more established Napa or Sonoma Valleys in California. The region is growing by leaps and bounds, though. In 2008, seven new wineries opened in Loudoun County alone. As the number of wineries increases, so too does the quality of the wine. Whether you’re a wine connoisseur or eager to learn more, this is a friendly, welcoming wine region you’ll not want to miss.

The wineries in nearby Loudoun and Fauquier Counties are a perfect introduction to the area’s wine country, which has become an increasingly popular destination for both area residents and visitors over the past decade. Many of the counties’ wineries boast award-winning wines that are surprising national and international wine experts with their consistent high quality.

Even better, many wineries are “mom and pop” operations, eager to greet visitors. In fact, visitors often find the winemaker and/or owners pouring in the tasting room. Families with children are usually welcome at the wineries; some wineries are even dog friendly and provide treats and water bowls. Most wineries boast comfortable tasting rooms, beautiful patios, and a big lawn, perfect for a leisurely picnic lunch. Either way you look at it, a visit to the region can be a truly unique and personal experience.

Over the past decade, Virginia’s wine country has exploded in size, popularity, and, most importantly, quality. Northern Virginia alone is home to 55 wineries, many of them located in easy-to-reach Loudoun and Fauquier counties. Its rolling hills are dotted with old farmhouses, historic villages, and quiet country lanes barely wide enough for two cars to pass, making Virginia wine country a perfect (and usually cooler) escape from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Because most of the wineries are family operations, the owners are usually found in the tasting room, pouring the wines they planted, grew, harvested, blended, and bottled themselves. You’ll get to try awardwinning samples of Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Norton, a native varietal exclusive to Virginia, as well as lesser known varietals, such as Roussane, Mourvedre, Tannat, and Petit Verdot. Your tasting will not only be a true learning experience, but an intimate one as well.

We grouped wineries into two trails to make your visit easier. If you’ve ever gone wine tasting, you know that three wineries in one day is plenty.

Loudoun County
A visit to the Loudoun County wine trail is not complete without a stop at Tarara Winery, considered the granddaddy of the Loudoun County wineries. Founded by Whitie and Margaret Hubert as a fun way to spend their retirement, they transformed 475 acres along the Potomac River in Leesburg into one of the most distinguished and popular wineries in the area for a good reason: they are approachable, family-friendly, and their Viognier and Meritage (a Bordeaux-style blend) consistently receive accolades from their customers.

Just west of Leesburg is Doukenie Winery, a small family-owned winery on a 500 acre farm in Hillsborough. Named for the owner’s grandmother, whose father owned a vineyard in Greece, they offer Bordeaux blends, Merlot, Cabernet-Franc, Fume Blanc, Riesling, and Chardonnay, among others. Once you’ve finished your tasting in their big red barn, take a tour of the facilities and enjoy a picnic on the deck or under the willow trees by the pond.

Drive south to your final stop for the day, Hillsborough Vineyards and Winery in Purcellville. Owned and operated by the Baki family, the winery was established on a centuries’ old farm that features a two story fieldstone farmhouse built in 1820 and a barn, which now holds the Tasting Room. All of their wines are bottled as blends, which allow them to add depth to their wines and showcase the best of each varietal.

Fauquier/Rappahannock County

Drive out west on I-66 to Fauquier and Rappahannock counties, home to wineries, old estates, horses, and gentleman farmers. First stop is the Philips Carter Winery which is one of the few places that can boast of the depth of American wine history. The family carries a two hundred and fifty year legacy dating back to 1762 as producers of the first internationally recognized fine wines in America. Located in Hume, Virginia, Philip Carter Winery is seated on 27 acres among rolling hills and vineyards in the heart of Fauquier County’s Wine Country.

Traveling from Hume is quiet Linden, VA, home of Fox Meadow Winery. Perched at an elevation of 1700 feet on land that once belonged to the hundred year old Freezeland Orchards, Fox Meadow is only a few years old but is already gaining recognition for its wines. Their twelve wines range from an estate grown Merlot to a barrelaged Chardonnay. Enjoy the magnificent view of the surrounding area from their deck.

A short drive south of Linden is Chester Gap Cellars, another high-elevation winery. Located at the northern tip of Rappahannock County, take in the stunning views from their open-air tasting patio as you sample hand-crafted wines, including estate-grown Viognier, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and several innovative blends. The Jung family is deeply committed to growing the highest quality grapes and capturing the full flavor of that quality through minimal intervention.

Stafford County

If you take a trip south to Fredericksburg, be sure to stop at Potomac Point Winery in nearby Stafford. Located on the historic Widewater Peninsula, the winery is housed in a beautiful Tuscan-style villa. They not only offer a variety of wines, including Chardonnay, Viognier, Traminette, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and a handful of blends, but they also have a fullservice restaurant, Le Grand Cru Bistro, serving light fare matched to their wines.